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 Post subject: Can we talk brake pads?
PostPosted: Tue Sep 01, 2015 9:29 pm 
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Hey all, I'm doing my first track day in a few weeks at Gateway. I'll be bringing my new to me 2006 FZ6. Before I bring it onto the track I want to get new brake pads for the front. I don't know what brand is currently being used but the PO did upgrade to braded brake lines. However I still feel the front brakes are not as effective as they could/should be. What brands/material should I look for in new brake pads.

Also a contributor to my bad braking I think is the fork oil. I recently did the seals and I used 5W oil. The bike suggests 10w but I had 5w on me and never thought I would use this bike for anything other than commuting. Should I change that out for 10w?

Are there any other minor suggestions you guys have for prepping a street bike for track days? I'm currently running Rotella Synthetic oil and a Brosch oil filter. I don't know what brand of air filter but the PO said he replaced it beginning of this year, should I grab a K&N?


Thanks for all the help!


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 01, 2015 9:37 pm 
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Wow, you covered all the greatly debated topics in one post. :) Oil, check. Filter, check. Brake pads, check. :) Everyone has an opinion on those so it's not really of huge value asking those questions. :) Personally, I don't think you can go wrong with OEM manufacturer recommended everything. At least as a base. If you find something that works better great. We were racing bone stock ZX-6Rs with OEM pads, suspension, brake lines, filters, oil, exhaust, etc and doing quite well with them. Having said that on my new bike ('14 ZX10R) I'm not real happy with the stock brakes so I guess it kind of depends on the specific machine as if there are good improvements that can be made. I would think that a stock FZ6 set up to completely manufacturer specs should be more than fine for Novice/Intermediate level riding though.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 02, 2015 7:11 am 
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Were the old seals leaking? If they were and got on your pads that's why you have no stopping power.

Really can't go wrong with a set of your favorite brand HH pads.

As far as weight of oil, personally I'd switch back.

I run the Rotella Synthetic in all my bikes so id say thats good to go.

Id leave the air filter.

How many miles on the oil filter?

If your going to do any work on the bike, I'd safety wire the oil filter, fill plug, drain plug, etc.

What coolant are you running?

What tires are you going to run, and do you know what pressure to run them at on the track?


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 02, 2015 7:30 am 
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crash wrote:
Wow, you covered all the greatly debated topics in one post. :) Oil, check. Filter, check. Brake pads, check. :) Everyone has an opinion on those so it's not really of huge value asking those questions. :) Personally, I don't think you can go wrong with OEM manufacturer recommended everything.


Haha sorry I didn't mean to do this, I just didn't know if there was a difference between the $50 pads and the $12 pads. I would assume there is but I saw some $30 ones that were ceramic and that's whats used on super cars but I have no idea if its the same tech. I'll look into OEM ones, thanks!


DCMoney wrote:
Were the old seals leaking? If they were and got on your pads that's why you have no stopping power.

Really can't go wrong with a set of your favorite brand HH pads.

As far as weight of oil, personally I'd switch back.

I run the Rotella Synthetic in all my bikes so id say thats good to go.

Id leave the air filter.

How many miles on the oil filter?

If your going to do any work on the bike, I'd safety wire the oil filter, fill plug, drain plug, etc.

What coolant are you running?

What tires are you going to run, and do you know what pressure to run them at on the track?


The seals were leaking but not bad enough to be dripping that far down, I have ridden on bikes that were soaked so very possible! I just looked up what HH meant, didn't know such a rating existed, thanks!

The oil filter and oil were done around 500 miles ago, I personally did it once I got the bike. Tires were also done at the same time, I'm running Pilot Road 3's in the back and Pilot Road 2's in the front (shop had a mixup and gave me a free upgrade). I have an extra set of Pilot Road 2's that were delivered after I cancelled the order, long story short I got stuck with them so I have an extra set. I was going to wire the filter and drain plug but how exactly should I wire the fill plug since it's plastic, do I need to get a metal one?

I don't know what pressure to run in them, I was going to go with manufacture spec unless directed by someone more knowledgeable.

Coolant I haven't touched yet, I was going to get the "water wetter" since I read it is still an anti-freeze and I wont have to worry about changing it after the track day.


Thanks!


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 02, 2015 8:22 am 
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Magruder13 wrote:
crash wrote:
Wow, you covered all the greatly debated topics in one post. :) Oil, check. Filter, check. Brake pads, check. :) Everyone has an opinion on those so it's not really of huge value asking those questions. :) Personally, I don't think you can go wrong with OEM manufacturer recommended everything.


Haha sorry I didn't mean to do this, I just didn't know if there was a difference between the $50 pads and the $12 pads. I would assume there is but I saw some $30 ones that were ceramic and that's whats used on super cars but I have no idea if its the same tech. I'll look into OEM ones, thanks!


DCMoney wrote:
Were the old seals leaking? If they were and got on your pads that's why you have no stopping power.

Really can't go wrong with a set of your favorite brand HH pads.

As far as weight of oil, personally I'd switch back.

I run the Rotella Synthetic in all my bikes so id say thats good to go.

Id leave the air filter.

How many miles on the oil filter?

If your going to do any work on the bike, I'd safety wire the oil filter, fill plug, drain plug, etc.

What coolant are you running?

What tires are you going to run, and do you know what pressure to run them at on the track?


The seals were leaking but not bad enough to be dripping that far down, I have ridden on bikes that were soaked so very possible! I just looked up what HH meant, didn't know such a rating existed, thanks!

The oil filter and oil were done around 500 miles ago, I personally did it once I got the bike. Tires were also done at the same time, I'm running Pilot Road 3's in the back and Pilot Road 2's in the front (shop had a mixup and gave me a free upgrade). I have an extra set of Pilot Road 2's that were delivered after I cancelled the order, long story short I got stuck with them so I have an extra set. I was going to wire the filter and drain plug but how exactly should I wire the fill plug since it's plastic, do I need to get a metal one?

I don't know what pressure to run in them, I was going to go with manufacture spec unless directed by someone more knowledgeable.

Coolant I haven't touched yet, I was going to get the "water wetter" since I read it is still an anti-freeze and I wont have to worry about changing it after the track day.


Thanks!


If you're just doing novice, safety wire isn't required, but I recommend safety wiring anyway. The plastic fill plug still needs to be wired, lot of people drill a small hole in it and use a quick release pin.

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Water wetter will freeze! Engine ice is what your looking for (or Prestone Low Tox http://www.amazon.com/Prestone-AF555-Low-Tox-Antifreeze/dp/B004QAXW82).

You'll want to run lower pressures in your tires than what you run on the street. Raven21 is the Michelin tire vendor and should have a number for you start at.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 02, 2015 8:37 am 
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Don't think I've seen the Propylene Glycol based Prestone before. Looks like it's about 1/4 the price of Engine Ice considering you get twice as much in a container and it doesn't appear to be premixed with water. Cool! Looks like I'll have to start using that!

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 02, 2015 8:55 am 
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crash wrote:
Don't think I've seen the Propylene Glycol based Prestone before. Looks like it's about 1/4 the price of Engine Ice considering you get twice as much in a container and it doesn't appear to be premixed with water. Cool! Looks like I'll have to start using that!


I started using it this year, its green, looks just like regular antifreeze and feels really slick.

But yeah 1/4 of the price of engine ice, Id recommend just buying it from amazon, I went to Oreilly's as their site says they have it, they had no idea what I was talking about, gave them the part number said zero availability. Tried a few other shops with no luck. Had it in 2 days with amazon.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 02, 2015 10:32 am 
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Cool thanks! Even Engine Ice is very slippery, however, it is "supposed" to be easier to clean up and get off of a track than Ethylene Glycol. But, I've only seen that claim by the owner of Engine Ice so take that for what it is worth. I really like having "some" form of antifreeze allowed though just because I don't want it to freeze. :)

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 02, 2015 12:26 pm 
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Thanks for all the help guys! I ended up getting Engine Ice as it's the first thing I saw on BikeBandit and it had really good reviews. Also got HH front brake pads and 10w fork oil. I saw on the FZ6 forums that someone suggested getting the Race Tech front suspension springs, it's only $125 but I don't think I need to upgrade before I even do a single lap.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 02, 2015 12:35 pm 
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Magruder13 wrote:
Thanks for all the help guys! I ended up getting Engine Ice as it's the first thing I saw on BikeBandit and it had really good reviews. Also got HH front brake pads and 10w fork oil. I saw on the FZ6 forums that someone suggested getting the Race Tech front suspension springs, it's only $125 but I don't think I need to upgrade before I even do a single lap.


Last part is 100% true.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 02, 2015 3:04 pm 
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crash wrote:
Last part is 100% true.


I wish I could go back and tell my 14 year old self not so spend $2000 on paintball gear before we even played our first tournament. I was convinced those extra upgrades would help me win...we got 15th outta 18 teams and never played again. I learned a good lesson and now I have decent gear when I go play with co-workers twice a year lol


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 02, 2015 4:01 pm 
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Hey, it's still fun to spend money, customize, change things out, etc. I spent a few grand on extra goodies for my new bike and I can almost guarantee you that not one of those upgrades resulted in faster lap times. :) Also, my fastest lap ever at Gateway on my old ZX6R was before I did any mods (which included full exhaust, full Bazzaz, and a few other things). Matter of fact I've only tied that bone stock ZX6R time on my new ZX10 which I also modded out. So what's the point other than the fun factor? Fun factor is a good reason too I guess if you have spare money laying around. :)

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 2015 3:14 pm 
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As a ballpark 30 psi front 30-32 rear but like Drew said check with the tire venders.

Also think about sport tires as opposed to touring tires before stepping up to intermediate .


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2015 10:11 pm 
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A word of advice with EBC HH or any other Cintered pads;

If your bike's rotors are worn with high and low grooves
Be sure to put plenty of miles on the pads on the street to get them bedded in well before you hit the track.
Otherwise you will be on your butt faster than you can say "What happened???"...

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 09, 2015 8:47 pm 
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Noidly1 wrote:
A word of advice with EBC HH or any other Cintered pads;

If your bike's rotors are worn with high and low grooves
Be sure to put plenty of miles on the pads on the street to get them bedded in well before you hit the track.
Otherwise you will be on your butt faster than you can say "What happened???"...


I've thought about this, I'm going to get the pads on tomorrow and I ride pretty much every day until race day next weekend.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 05, 2015 3:35 pm 
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crash wrote:
Hey, it's still fun to spend money, customize, change things out, etc. I spent a few grand on extra goodies for my new bike and I can almost guarantee you that not one of those upgrades resulted in faster lap times. :) Also, my fastest lap ever at Gateway on my old ZX6R was before I did any mods (which included full exhaust, full Bazzaz, and a few other things). Matter of fact I've only tied that bone stock ZX6R time on my new ZX10 which I also modded out. So what's the point other than the fun factor? Fun factor is a good reason too I guess if you have spare money laying around. :)

Todd, I don't have any spare money laying around... ever... and since your mods did you no good, I think you should go back to old ZX6, give me ZX10, sell ZX6 upgrades, and give me those proceeds also!! :mrgreen: :lol: :D :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 05, 2015 4:07 pm 
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Well, I have since surpassed my old ZX6R times on the new ZX10R so who knows, maybe it really IS the bike? :)

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 05, 2015 4:34 pm 
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crash wrote:
Well, I have since surpassed my old ZX6R times on the new ZX10R so who knows, maybe it really IS the bike? :)

Whatever Todd.... no love. :(


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 05, 2015 4:36 pm 
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I'm going to let go of the old #84 if yer interested though. In fact I might also get rid of the new #84 if I can get a good enough deal on that 2016 model. Very doubtful though. :)

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 05, 2015 5:19 pm 
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No, save the old ZX6 for another... I did finally get a new horse in the stable! ;)

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